One of Colombia's principal domestic tourist destinations, Cartagena's immaculately preserved colonial quarter--the Walled City--is among the oldest in the Americas and its main attraction. The neighborhood's upscale boutiques and array of international fine dining restaurants may not be an authentic representation of life outside the colonial walls, but it is a place too beautiful to begrudge.
Away from the throngs, under the cool shade of mature almond trees, is the Walled City's most enchanted and enchanting corner, Plaza Fernandez de Madrid, where Florentino Ariza sat pining for Fermina Daza.
A short walk up the street, the stunning Sofitel Santa Clara, set amid a beautifully restored former convent, is occasionally graced by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who is said to drop by for a drink. Although room rates fall outside most backpacker budgets, the courtyard--with its manicured gardens and colorful toucans--is open to the public.
Just beyond the Walled City lies Getsemani, a vibrant neighborhood with more local life, grit, and seediness than its carefully restored neighbor, whose affordable food and lodging options have made it the city's backpacker epicenter.
On Wednesday nights, the Media Luna Hostel plays host to a legendary party drawing a steady stream of locals in private cars, dressed to the nines, who come to mingle with backpackers from around the world dressed in shorts and flip flops.
Thursday through Saturday nights, taxi drivers stand outside Cafe Havana to drink in the intoxicating Cuban rhythms pulsating into the streets from one of the city's best and most authentic spots for live music.
After a day and a half in Cartagena, every street and corner in the Walled City had become familiar and it was time to move on. But it took even less time for the city's delicate mix of grime and fresh paint, of passion and heartbreak, to make us fall in love.
In every place we ate or drank or stayed, our thanks were always met with the same heartfelt response--"¡Con Gusto!"--a phrase that sums up the remarkable passion for life in Cartagena and, as we would later find, all over Colombia.
TO SLEEP: From among the dozen places we visited, Akel House Hostel (Calle San Andres #30-28, Getsemani; www.akelhouse.com) offered by far the best private rooms. A spotless and bright budget hotel centrally located just off of Calle Media Luna in Getsemani, the property is family-run and it shows. Ask for a room on the third floor, facing the large balcony that overlooks the city. Rooms start at about 70,000 pesos.
FOR A BREAK FROM THE HEAT: Head to Mila Cafe (Calle de la Iglesia 35-76), a beautifully decorated Mexican pastry shop with an unbelievably decadent quatros leches cake served, like the best homemade tiramisu, in a bowl.
Or try Gelateria Paradiso (Calle de Estanco del Tabaco 35-28), where the tarty and sweet maracuya sorbet is particularly refreshing.
FOR LUNCH: Step inside La Mulata (Calle Quero 9-58) and take a seat under the papier mache fish dangling from the ceiling, beside the peeling white washed walls decorated with native masks and photos of young Fidel and Che, to listen to the blaring salsa trumpets of San Barios and enjoy fantastic Colombian fare alongside the locals. In addition to the memorable food, La Mulata offers the best fruit juices we had in Colombia.
STREET FOOD BY DAY: Try the bevy of food carts along Avenida Venezuela just outside the Walled City, or head into Walled City itself.
STREET FOOD BY NIGHT: After sundown, the Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsemani fills with locals and tourists sitting around to talk, drink, and watch the kids play pickup soccer--and enough delicious street carts to feed them all.
FOR DINNER: The best and freshest ceviche we've ever had was at El Boliche Cibecheria (Calle Larga 9A-36). It was so good, we went twice in the same night. Try the tamarind ceviche.
A QUICK BREAKFAST: For a piping hot breakfast pastry fresh from the oven, stop by a bakery (panaderia) and ask for pan con pollo--a flaky, buttery puff pastry stuffed with chicken and cheese. To find the best one, follow the locals and your nose.
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